Sabyasachi Sarees

Sabyachachi Muherjee, is a young designer from Kolkata who, has been making waves in the design circles in India. With 3 major awards from NIFT Kolkata - The Best Design collection, the Ritu Kumar award for excellence in design and the Viewers Choice award at the NIFT Confluence - Sabyasachi ventured out with his own label. His winning the `Times of India - British Council`s most outstanding designer of India` award entailed an internship in London, after which Sabyasachi honed his skills and started supplying to Tony boutiques in India.

Sabyasachi's design philosophy is the personalized imperfection of the human hand. Deserts, gypsies, prostitutes and antique textiles have been a lifelong inspiration for this designer who believes that clothes should just be an extension of one's intellect.

Currently the Sabyasachi label retails at Carma & Ogaan, New Delhi, Melange & Ensemble, Mumbai, Espee & Intrigue, Kolkata and Origins and Oorja, Hyderabad.

Sabyasachi's romantic take on Indo-Pak partition

Sabyasachi Mukherjee wows the audience at the Lakme Fashion Week with his romantic creations on India-Pakistan partition.

Sabyasachi packed the house with the largest audience yet at the Lakme Fashion Week.
"My inspiration," he says, "is a romantic look at the Indian-Pakistan Partition."

"As India's economy booms and pride in our nation surges, Indian fashion is looking inwards. Instead of mimicking Western traditions, we must look into our own past and grapple with our identity," he continued.

With qawwali wailing forth from the overhead speakers, models stalked the runways in breathtaking Indian formal wear.

Fascinating cuts, breathtaking Indian silhouettes and dynamic use of colours and fabrics defined the transcendant collection.

This gorgeous silk georgette sari was to die for with it glittering detail all over the body and contrasting red shimmer border

Courtesy: http://specials.rediff.com/getahead/2007/oct/14sabya1.htm

Fashion Shows of Sabyasachi's design collection sarees and dresses

LIFW 2002
Lakme Fashion Week's sixth day started off with an intellectually whimsical collection of Sabyascahi that created the fun idiom for Indian fashion. Stunning in its use of exquisite colour mixes, extraordinary fabric ornamentation and unusual silhouettes. Bohemian chic was reinterpreted for Indian silhouettes with patch skirts, churidars, tunics, blouses, jackets and sarees. The colours were rich, contrasting yet completely harmonious in their appeal- a range of fuchsias, oranges, peacock greens, reds, henna, and turquoise. Brocades, duppioni, tanchois, antique saree-borders, and bandhanis were creatively assembled.

LIFW 2003
Sabyasachi's work resounds with a sense of utter freshness and intelligence. The collection was inspired, in part, by the streets of Victorian London and Calcutta, defined by Sabyasachi`s ethos of cross cultural fashion and his desire to portray a sense of innocence. The silhouettes were varied and multi-faceted. Often layered or oversized. Off the shoulder cotton knits over more skimpy body hugging knits; long knit cardigans over tiered skirts; ruched and smocked detached sleeves worn with sleeveless vests or camisoles. Dhoti-like pants caught at the ankle with buckled straps on the guys, or under short, tailored western jackets by the girls; saris were so stylized that they were barely recognizable. Guys wore long kurtas over pajama pants cropped to the lower calf. Otherwise mens` trousers were straight, wide and ankle lengths. Skirts flowed long, often paneled. The collection was accessorized with boxing gloves, oversized swagbags, crocheted shoulder bags, tiffin carriers gold plimsoles, extra long scarves.

LIFW 2004
Sabyasachi Mukherjee showcased an Old World charm in his collection. Frail velvet tops with puff sleeves, rose embroidered saris in georgettes, crochet shifts, layered and gathered cotton skirts with frayed ruffle hems, jackets with appliqués and feathered ribbons. There were also patchwork blouses with duchess satin sashes, printed and crinkled chiffon tunics, sueded waist-coats, and A-line skirts with pom-pom embellishments constitute the separates, often getting layered into one ensemble in Sabyasachi`s signature style. He uses muted and subtle colours of faded orange, lapis lazuli, henna, tea rose, rust and berry in the solids, and multiple antique floral wallpaper prints that gently merge into one another.

LIFW 2005
Known for his styling and layering Sabyasachi delivered a collection with all the traits expected from him-hand printing, block printing and modern versions of the saree. Large sleeves and oversized shirts gave these designs a floating feel. Muddy colors dominated. It was a very romantic look from the designer.

LIFW 2006
The Theme of the Collection was the snail: A gentle calm and quietness permeated through Sabyasachi`s new resort collection, as fashion worldwide settled down into a cleaner, fresher mood. Painstakingly tedious processes of subtle texturing, laborious processes of mud and discharge printing, obsolete techniques of embroidery, classic couture construction processed and controlled volume in silhouettes injected an air of old world charm to this otherwise modern collection. In an era of super production, this collection was all about slowing down. Its was not about being old fashioned, nor was it about dropping out. It was about being quietly assertive and being able to choose a less chaotic and perhaps better way of life.

Sabyasachi enjoyed designing for Laaga Chunari Mein Daag

The 28-year old Sabyasachi is very proud of the clothes that he has designed for Laaga Chunari Mein Daag “as it was the third time I was dressing my favourite Rani Mukerji. It is always a pleasure to do outfits for her as she is not fussy at all. As for working with Yash Raj Films, though it was my first time, it was like going to college as everything was done systematically. They are the most organised people and I had a good time working with the unit,” he admits. Sabyasachi has also designed the clothes for Jaya Bachchan and Konkona Sen Sharma in the film.

Sabyasachi says that since Laaga Chunari Mein Daagis about a humble family based in Benares, he had to keep it simple. “In the first half, Rani is a simple small-town girl. In the second half though, there is a great transition in her outlook as she is now an escort and as a high-class call girl, she is made to look very sexy.” For this, she was given classy designer clothes, sunglasses, high heels and elegant bags, something she has never done before. “Something like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman,” he beams adding that he has worked with Rani earlier in Black (a film that is close to his heart as he bagged the National award for the period clothes) and then in Ravi Chopra’s Baabul.

For the small-town look, he has given both Rani and Konkona the local printed chintz kurtas, patialas and chanderi dupattas. “I have used a lot of cottons to go according to the decorum of the characters, that of UP-ite families. For Mrs. Bachchan, I have made her wear loose fitting jaama blouses with cotton sarees and no accessories except for hari chudiyaan. She carries a small coin purse, stating the fact that she has none or very little money to put in it. Her aging goes well with her character of a lady struggling to keep her family surviving in dire circumstances,” he says.

The other designers involved with the costumes in Laaga Chunari Mein Daagare Manish Malhotra, Subarna Ray Chaudhuri and Shiraz Siddique and talking about them, he says that each one had a character for whom they designed clothes and “since I am practically new and have yet to gain a foothold in the film industry, I would take the help of Subarna who I have known since childhood. We bonded very well.”

For a designer who is known for his ensembles that have universal appeal and for his ‘Indianised’ Milan collection, Sabyasachi loves to experiment with garments, his speciality being coats, jackets, skirts, sarees, as well as using a lot of lace, voiles, chiffons and georgettes. All this comes from books, confesses the designer adding that for the recent London Fashion Week held from September 15 to 20 followed by ramp shows in New York, his Nomad Collection was inspired by two books, Paul Coelho’s The Witch of Portobello and Kite Runner by Khalil Hosseini. The clothes were multi-cultured with ideas from all over like Khazakistan, Soviet Russia, Communist China, India, and so on. It was a great hit.

Presently Sabyasachi is busy with his collection in London, Paris and New York for sales. He admits candidly that films are not his main occupation, “I am doing it just for fun. In fact, I have given up a lot of offers as I was not convinced with the projects,” he adds that his work in Laaga Chunari Mein Daag will prove his potential as a designer to the film fraternity and until then “I shall wait for a fantastic script to come my way,” he beams.

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