Indian Fashion  

Types of Sarees:

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Here Diferent types of regional sarees are as follows

Indian Saris Northern styles:

•Bandhani – Gujarat and Rajasthan
•Chikan – Lucknow
•Kota doria – Rajasthan
•Banarasi – Benares
Tant
Jamdani
Tanchoi
Shalu

•Baluchari– West Bengal
•Kantha– West Bengal
A Kantha is a type of sari popular in West Bengal, India. Worn by Bengali Kayastha women, it is known for its delicate embroidery.
Kantha is really the name for the embroidery itself, rather than the sari per se. Any garment or cloth with kantha embroidery (which forms or outlines decorative motifs with running stitch) is a kantha garment.
Kantha stitching is also used to make simple quilts. Women in Bengal typically use old saris and cloth and layer them with kantha stitch to make a light blanket or throw or bedspread, especially for children. Kantha is currently very popular with tourists visiting Bengal, and is a specialty of Bolpur/Shantiniketan.
Another form of running stitch decorative stitching is the Japanese sashiko quilting.
 
•Jamavar

A jamavar is a special type of shawl made in Kashmir. Historically it was made by hand and some shawls took a couple of decades to complete. Original Jamavar shawls sell for high prices.

The jamavar design is a special floral pattern which resembles the mango fruit.
Kanika Jamavar is a high end variety of Jamavar shawl. It is made with weaving sticks and the patterns are so finely done that front and back of the shawl are indistinguishable. Pashmina wool is used to make these shawls. Less then a dozen Kani Jamavar shawls are manufactured every year. The primary manufacturing centre for these shawls is Kashmir while some low end, machine made shawls also coming from Naziwabad, U.P.

Tie & Die/Lehriya/Bandhini of Rajasthan: Tie and die is a multi colored craft of Rajasthan. A large number of colours are used because once the base colour is tied in, a lot of colours can be applied on to the fabric at different stages and then tied and detached gradually. The motifs that are used are birds, leaves, animals, creepers, and human figures in dance poses.

Designs are known by their names such as mountain design, dol design and kite design. Dots are used to make up the designs. A different colour on either side is also practiced by the craftsmen. Lehariya has long lines in a variety of colours found all over the body of the sari or dress material. Turbans are also a good outcome. The lehariya cloths have their own names depending on the designs. Bandhanis are related to festivals, seasons and rituals for which there are particular patterns and colours.

Kota Doria sarees of Rajasthan: Kota, a small district situated in southeast of Rajasthan is very famous for its delicate kota doria sarees, These dorias are fine woven fabrics containing a special type of check pattern in the weave itself, locally called khat. These sarees are very delicate, lightweight and porous and this makes them favorable towards surface ornamentation techniques like batik tie-and-dye, chiknar work, hand-block printing, embroidery and appliqué work.

Bandhej Saree from Gujarat: tie-dyed fabrics of Gujarat

Art of tie and dye is popularly known as Bandhej in the Gujarat region. Jamnagar, Anjar, and Bhuj are the main centres where artists work traditionally on First step towards the procedure is the dipping of cloth into a colour after which the cloth is folded to a quarter of its size. The designs are created with the combination of small dots and circles. The borders are broad and are worked both in matching and contrasting colours.

The tying of the border and the release of the colour is called sevo bandhavo. The colouring method involves the lightest shade being worked in first order , after which this is tied and a darker colour is introduced. An unlimited number of colour schemes are used. The quality of the bandhej can be judged by the size of the dots: the smaller and closer to the size of a pinhead the dots are, the finer is the quality of the bandhej. Red, , maroon , yellow, and golden, black are the common shades. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Central styles:
Chanderi – Madhya Pradesh
Paithani – Maharashtra
Lugade – Maharashtra
Ikat – Orissa

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 Southern styles:

•Dhakai

A Dhakai is a type of sari (traditional cloth for women of South Asia) made with cotton. The name comes from the Dhaka city, capital of Bangladesh, where this type of sari is usually made.

•Madisar
The Madisar is the style in which the sari is worn by the Brahmin community in Tamil Nadu, India. In ancient days, this was the mandatory style in which the sari was supposed to be worn by a woman after her marriage, but today, to suit modern trends, yet accommodate traditions, the madisaar is worn by women on selected festive occasions and while witnessing ceremonies. Normally saris are six yards in length, but since the madisar is worn in a different style, one requires a nine-yard sari to wear it. It is a very important part of the Iyer and Iyengar culture. Both Iyer and Iyengar Brahmin wear madisars for all important occasions in their lives, starting with marriage, followed by Seemandham (form of a baby shower), all important poojas, and death ceremonies.
Iyers and Iyengars wear Madisars differently. Iyers wear the Pallu (the layer of the saree which comes over one's shoulder)over the right shoulder, but Iyengars wear it over the left shoulder.
Madisars are available in a variety of materials such as silk, cotton, cotton-silk blends, polyester-cotton blends, etc.

Bangladeshi Saris
Jamdani
Dhakai Benarosi
Rajshahi Silk
Tangail Tanter Sari
Katan Sari
Pabna  

Pakistani saris
In Pakistan, the wearing of saris has almost completely been replaced by the Salwar kameez for everyday wear. According to many observers, the sari has lost favour in Pakistan since it is seen as being associated with India. However, the sari is often worn by the elderly, and to formal events.

Sri Lankan saris
Sri Lankan women wear saris in many styles. However, two ways of draping the sari are popular and tend to dominate; the Indian style (classic nivi drape) and the Kandyan style (or 'osaria' in Sinhalese). The Kandyan style is generally more popular in the hill country region of Kandy from which the style gets its name. Though local preferences play a role, most women decide on style depending on personal preference or what is perceived to be most flattering for their body.

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Contrast this example of a Kandyan style sari draping with what Sri Lankans refer to as the ' Indian style'. The Indian style generally consists of an uninterruped flow of sari fabric over the stomach and shoulders. The traditional Kandyan (Osaria) style consists of a full jacket, covers the midriff completely, and is partially tucked in at the front as is seen in this 19th century portrait. However, modern intermingling of styles has led to most wearers baring more of the midriff. The final tail of the sari is neatly pleated rather than free-flowing. This is rather similar to the pleated rosette used in the 'Darivian' style noted earier in the article. Here is another example of a Sri Lankan style of draping the sari.

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