Embroidered Sarees

Yukta Mukhi in Indian traditional embrodered saree


Embroidery - Decorative sewing on fabric or other substrate that incorporates design elements, text or other recognition, commercial or promotional graphics; originally executed by hand, embroidery has evolved through various stages of technology to its current state of computer-driven, multi-head, multi-color embroidery machines.

Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with designs stitched in strands of thread or yarn using a needle. Embroidery may also use other materials such as metal strips, Katha kantha Work, Chicken Work, chikankari work, Jari Work, mirror, aari, cutdana, kadana, sequins, sequences, resham, jari, zari, zardozi zardosi, chikankari, phulkari, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins, kundan, embroidery on net jaal, jali, jalee . Sewing machines can be used to create machine embroidery.

Zardosi Embroidery saree:

Do you know? zardosi is the oldest form of embroideries done in India. Its existence is from mughal age. Many types of embroideries have lost there identities in this designer world but zardosi is an form of embroidery which always attracts the designers and manufacturers. Indian women still loves her zardosi saree and consider it to be the most important attire in her wardrobe for functions and occasions.

Zardosi is a form of embroidery done by golden metal wires. For this form,  embroidery saree is first tucked in a frame an then number of “kaarigars” design beautiful intricate patterns on the fabric through metal threads. This is an very timetaking and hard work. Zardosi sarees are not only famous in India but it has a vast demand in countries outside India too.

Most common patterns done by the Karigars are mangoes, flowers and leaf patterns.

Zari embroidery:

Zari is the metallic yarn, made of pure silver. Originally, zari was manufactured in Yeola; Surat now being another zari-producing center. Initially, zari used in making Paithani was drawn from pure gold. However, silver is the affordable substitute today.

Zari is a type of thread made of fine gold or silver wire used in traditional Indian and Pakistani garments. This thread is woven into fabrics, primarily made of silk to create intricate patterns. It is believed this tradition started during the Mughal period. Zari is also a method of traditional textile weaving in Iran. Zari is the main material in most silk sarees and ghararas. It is also used in other garments made of silk, like skirts, tops and vettis.

Zardosi embroidery:

Zardosi is also very famous embroidery type done on fabrics such as silk, chiffon, georgett, with the help of golden,silver and multicolored metal threads. It is an ancient Persian art form dating back before the Mughal Empire.The use of metal embroidery in Indian textiles and costumes, especially the ones used for special occasions or ceremonial purposes, demonstrate the importance of gold and silver within the culture. Now a days zardosi work gives very ethnic and exclusive look to Embroidered designer wear sarees, tradional wedding sarees and designer bridal lehenga cholis, stylish salwar kameez with embrroidery work on kurta/kameez and dupatta/chunni/chunari. Embroidered kurtis also having exclusive zardosi work.

Zardosi embroidery was mainly embroidered on Organza fabric earlier but now zardosi has also become the choice of leading fashion designers of India and they do not hesitate to mix and match this beautiful art with various fabrics and colours to create magic.

Indian zardozi has made its place in the world and been considered as one among the beautiful embroidery styles including Chickan, Kashmiri, Gujrati and Sindhi embroideries. It is one of the most expensive types of embroidery because not only is the fabric and the material used expensive but also the labourers follow a system of wages on hourly basis. Even though zari work is very expensive, the beauty, the glamour and versatility have made it the most widely used embroidery all over the world. The labour is cheap in India when compared to other parts of the world.

Bead embroidery

Bead embroidery can be one of the most expressive, most satisfying methods of beadwork you will do. It's like painting with beads; forms create themselves, patterns flow and the beads know where they want to be. It is almost subconscious, you will be surprised at how it evolves.

From century old traditions to the modern world culture, the style of beaded embroidery has evolved from simple designs to creatively sewn beaded embellishments techniques. The need to beautify both garments as well as household objects with precious and semi precious stones and glass beads has made this embroidery very popular not onlyin India but the western world as well. In India special bead work embroidery of the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan are very famous.

Types of Bead used

  • Glass beads
  • Wooden Beads
  • Metallic beads
  • Plastic beads (Courtesy: www.indian-embroidery.com)

Aari embroidery work:

Aari embroidery is done primarily by the Muslim cobbler community in India. The designs are of Mughal origin since the art was at one time patronized by them. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs in the designs can be highly representational. Aari at times is also called zari work. The zari thread or the metallic thread if quite commonly used in this style of embroidery. It is done with colored thread as well using color gradations to make the motifs and figures highly representational.
(Courtesy: www.indian-embroidery.com)

Mirror work for embroidery

Mirror work is the art of stitching mirrors on to the fabric in a variety of designs. 

Mirrors of different shapes (Square, Diamond, Round etc) and sizes are used for Mirror work. Mirror work can be done on any fabric in sarees, blouse pieces, skirts etc. After fixing the mirror you can stitch beads around to make it more attractive. Sequence is a plastic silver coated material available in different shapes and size. This is also used instead of mirrors. 

Materials Required for mirror work

Mirrors or sequence of desired shapes & sizes
Embroidery Thread
Needle

There are different ways of fixing mirrors of different shapes to the fabric. Two or three strands of thread are taken to fix mirrors or sequence. (Courtesy: www.webindia123.com)

Chicken embroidery Work: Chicken Work is almost similar to Shadow work. Like Shadow work, Closed Herring Bone stitches are done on the wrong side of the fabric but the stitches are not done as perfectly as in Shadow work.

In chicken Work, stitching is always done with white cotton rough thread and the fabrics used is thicker than those used for Shadow Work - usually cotton. Though both follow the same stitch they have a totally different appearance. (For Herring Bone stitches refer Shadow work.) (Courtesy: www.webindia123.com)

Kantha embroidery work: Kantha  is basically close running stitch filled inside a design. Though the work is simple, the final appearance is beautiful. Different shades of thread; double shade or single shades can be used aesthetically according to your taste.

Patchwork: Patchwork in different shapes and size appear on many early American quilt. Even today it is a fashion. This particular one is based on the eight-point Lone Star design. It will brighten your sitting room or study room. If you are using simple patchwork, plan your design on a paper with pencils before beginning your work.

Sequins embroidery work: Sequins are disk shaped beads used for decorative purposes. They are available in a wide variety of colors and geometrical shapes. Sequins are commonly used on clothing, jewelry, bags and other accessories.

Resham embroidery work: Resham work is where silk threads are used to hand embroidery.

Kundan embroidery work: Kundan work is essentially Indian and it was brought to Rajasthan from Delhi during the Mughal period. Craftsmen from all over the country came to Jaipur, Bikaner, Udaipur and Jodhpur, under the patronage of royal houses. Numerous royal houses from Rajasthan, encouraged and patronized craftsmen to create exquisite kundan work on silver and gold.

The entire technique of Kundankari lies in the skillful setting of gems and stones in gold, which is rarely solid.

Chikankari embroidery work: Chikankari was nurtured in Uttar Pradesh and primarily in Lucknow. The work is done on very fine muslin and now on georgette and chiffon and other fine fabrics. It is more suited for the outerwear but these days there are certain exclusive creations using Chikan work in Cushion covers, pillow covers and table linen. Partition curtains with the chikan embroidery are fast gaining ground.

Phulkari embroidery work: The traditional Punjabi embroidery art is phulkari. The pulkari word means growing flowers. This embroidery form, true to its name includes only floral motifs in bright colors. There is sanctity to the art form as the canopy over Guru Granth Sahib, the religious book of the Sikhs is of phulkari.

The phulkari with very intricate floral patterns is called Bagh that means garden. It is primarily used on the odhanies and dupattas. It is considered auspecious for the bride and for the new born. It is worn on ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings.

Kashmiri embroidery or kashida: Kashmiri embroidery or kashida is colorful and beautiful as Kashmir itself. Embroiders often draw inspiration from the beautiful nature around. The colors the motifsof flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. are the most common ones. The whole pattern is created using one or two embroidery stitch styles.

Swarovski Embroidery work

Swarovski is the luxury brand name for the range of precision-cut lead crystal glass and related products

Religious Embroidery Design

Karnataka's Kasuti embroidery is based on religious themes. Whether the embroidery is on a saree or a ceremonial cloth, the themes are the same, the symbols are modified to give a new look and a crafters' imagination plays a great role in this art.

Orissa's applique embroidery and mirror work is all based on religion. The Puri Rath Yatra, the umbrellas, the fans all are the symbols of devotion to Lord Krishna. The ceremonial cloth and other fabric products used during the famous Rath Yatra are all embroidered with religious symbols in colorful threads and gold and silver or other metallic threads.

Chambal Rumal, the artistic embroidered representation of the Pahari miniature paintings is influenced by Mughal miniatures. They are called rumals because the cloth is invariably square. The subject of the embroideries have been based mainly on religious themes comprising Hindu deities, floral motifs, birds and animals. The Raas Mandal and Krishna theme have been particularly favored.

Chikan kari is said to have a divine evolution. Phulkari of Punjab is an essential component of any religious or cultural ceremony. It is not just the religious patterns that make a style religious, the very process and art of embroidery was at one time considered divine and a religious act.
(Courtesy: www.indian-embroidery.com)

Patch Work of Orissa: The city of Puri on the banks of Bay of Bengal is not only famous for its beach but is also an important religious town. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims throng to this place to pay a visit to the renowned temple of Lord Jagannath. During Rath Yatra of Lord Jagannath sister Subhadra and Brother Balbhadra vast canopies are required. The canopies are a representation of the beautiful craft of Applique and Patch work of Orissa. It's an important traditional craft and followed in Bhubaneshwar and its adjoining areas. The process involves making a large piece of cloth by joining figurative animals, flowers, geometrical shapes and motifs. This large cloth can then be converted into useful products. Apart from temples activities, the canopies are used in festivals and pavilions. The Pipli village, which is close to Puri is the centre for some lovely applique and patch work of Orissa. The applique craft is also very popular in Puri. The products included lamp shades, garden and beach umbrellas, kitchen accessories, bed and table linen, handbags and other furnishing items. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Patch Work of Tamil Nadu: The word Applique is a French term and is a technique where in several pieces of coloured fabrics is superimposed in patches to give a decorative effect. The patches are then sewn to the base fabric to give specific form and designs. In contrast to this patch work is a craft in which several pieces of clothes are stitched together to form a large piece. Sometimes it is done to repair a damaged cloth.

During festival processions these are usually found on the temple chariots for covering the horizontal beams. Applique work is also done on long tubular pieces which look like long pillars hanging down the sides of the chariots. Usually these are made of cotton and depict images of Durga, Shiva, Ganesha and Kartikeya in bright vibrant shades of red, white, black, blue and yellow.

Patch Work of Gujarat: Gujarat appliqué is based on the patchwork. Various coloured and patterned fabric is cut into different shapes and sizes. These pieces are then sewn together on fabric having plain background. The appliqué work of Gujarat is manly done on household use items. Dazzling motifs of birds and animals can be seen in bright colours. The stitching of the patterns is not hidden, infact, it is done with gaudy shades and adds to the art. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Banjara Tribal Embroidery & Mirror Work: The nomadic tribe or Banjara are believed to have descended from the gypsies of Europe thousand of years ago and settled in the deserts of Rajasthan. They are among the most colourful tribe in India because of their dresses and jewelry. This nomadic group practises the craft of Banjara tribal embroidery and mirror work. They make beautiful fabric which is characterized by vibrant colours, ornate embroidery and mirror work. Products made by banjara embroidery includes bags, belts, purses, cushion and pillow covers, bed spread, quilts apart from salwar suits, skirts, blouses etc. The embroidery sometimes also uses silver, brass, cowries, animal bones and gold. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Chamba Rumal Embroidery of Himachal: Chamba region has highly skilled craftsmen. The Chamba rumal embroidery flourished in the princely hill states of Chamba, Kangra, Basholi, and other neighbouring provinces. The rumals are usually square pieces of cloth, beautifully embroidered, and used to cover gifts and offerings. Traditionally the rumals were exchanged between the families of the bride and groom. These rumals were embroidered by upper-class women.

Raas mandal and the Krishna motif are very popular motifs and have huge demand. The cloth used was usually unbleached muslin (very thin white cloth). The embroidery form was a double satin stitch locally called do-rookha, the beauty of which lay in it being reversible --- equally beautiful on both sides.
(Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Chikan Embroidery of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh: Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh, was and is the centre of chikan embroidery, renowned for its timeless grace and its gossamer delicacy, a skill more than 200 years old --- exploited, commercialis but not dead. In fact, the craft is alive and struggling to regain some of its former beauty and elegance. Chikan embroidery is done on fine cotton fabric. The garments are first stitched and then embroidered, whereas skirts, saris, and table linen are first embroidered and then finished. A study of the origin of chikan reveals that this form of embroidery had come to India from Persia with Noor Jehan, the queen of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. The word chikan is a derivative from the Persian word 'chikaan' meaning drapery. Some, however, insist that the craft migrated from Bengal. What we know is that chikankari came to Oudh when Mughal power declined in Bengal and the artisans moved to the Oudh durbars, seeking employment and patronage.

The craft flourished under the benign nawabi influence. The ladies of the harem vied with each other in making white embroidered caps for the nawabs in order to be noticed and favoured. Earlier garments were so fragile that they had to be discarded after a few washes --this explains why early samples of chikan garments are not available. With the British influence, designs became more formal and items other than ethnic apparel began to be created. This brought a formalisation of designs to a large extent, which resulted in an export market. These items found a place in the prestigious homes in Europe and England, specimens of which are still available. The bel or creeper was the most commonly used design; individual motifs or butis of animals and flowers were also made. Fish (mahi) was a very common motif in Lucknow and used widely because it was the emblem of the Court of Oudh.

The design to be embroidered is printed on the fabric with wooden blocks, using fugitive colours, which are commonly made by mixing a glue and indigo with water. For extra fine designs, brass-blocks are sometimes used.

In chikan, the needle is held in the right hand while inserting it into the fabric, the left hand supports and controls the thread so that the stitches take the right shape. In traditional chikan no frames were used (though they are used now); the portion of the cloth to be embroidered is placed over the index finger of the left hand, supported by the rest of the fingers, leaving the thumb free. The needle is pulled away from the embroiderer who starts from the nearest end and finished at the farthest end.

There is a discipline and method in the application of the stitches. The darn stitch is worked on rough cotton fabric to fill angular designs and to cover the surface of the fabric, while satin stitching is done exclusively on delicate fabrics like silk, muslin, or linen. In chikan some stitches are worked from the wrong side of the fabric, while others are worked from the right side. It is however unique in its discipline in as much as stitches designated for a particular purpose are used only for that purpose --- they are not replaced by other stiches. For example, the chain stitch (zanjeera) will only be used for the final outline of a leaf, petal, or stem.

Different specialists work with different types of stitches. For example, open work or jaali is not done by embroiderers who do the filling work - each worker completes his/her bit and the fabric is then sent to the next embroiderer. The wages for each job are fixed separately.

Chikan embroidery has a repertoire of about 40 stitches of which about 30 are still being used. These can be broadly divided into 3 heads - flat stitches, raised and embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like jaali work. Some of these have equivalents in other embroideries, the rest are manipulations that make them distinctive and unique. They cover almost all the embroidery stitches of the country and have interesting and descriptive names. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Jaalis: The jaalis or trellises that are created in chikankari are a unique speciality of this craft. The holes are made by manipulation of the needle without cutting or drawing of thread. The threads of the fabric are teased apart to make neat regular holes or jaalis. In other centres where jaalis are done, the threads have to be drawn out. In chikankari, this is not the case. Names of jaali techniques suggest the place where they originated from --- Madrasi jaali or Bengali jaali ---- or possibly the place of demand for that particular jaali. The basic manner in which jaalis are created is by pushing aside wrap and weft threads in a fashion that minute openings are made in the cloth. Shape of openings and the stitches used distinguish one jaali from another.

The source of most of the design motifs in chikankari is Mughal. Noor Jehan's personal preferences and desire to replicate the Turkish architectural open-work designs is said to have that led to the introduction of jaalis in chikan embroidery. The designs in chikan are graded and used according to the stitches employed - murri ka buta and tepchi ka jaal --- though terms like hathi (elephant) and kairi (mango) are also used to signify the shape of the motif. It is however the stitch employed that is the established nomenclature.

The production process of a chikan garment, assuming it is a kurta, goes through several processes. In each process a different person is involved. The final responsibility is, however, that of the person ordering the manufacture, who is also usually the seller. Chikan work involves several stages. The fabric is cut by the tailor into the required garment shape, after which the basic pre-embroidery stitching is done so that the correct shape is available to the block-printer to plan the placement of the design. The design is printed on the semi-stitched garment with fugitive colours, and the embroidery of the garment is then begun. After completion, the article is checked carefully since most defects can be detected at first glance. However, the finer flaws surface only after washing. The washing is done in a bhatti, after which the garment is then starched and ironed. The whole cycle can take from one to six months. Originally, chikan embroidery was done with white thread on soft, white cotton fabric like muslin or cambric. It was sometimes done on net to produce a kind of lace. Today chikan work is not only done with coloured threads but on all kinds of fabrics like silk, crepe, organdie chiffon, and tassar.

Embroidery of Andhra: The Mathurias of Andhra Pradesh, a tribe found only in Adilabad, inhabit the forest area and, being nomadic, move from place to place looking for agricultural work on land. The women use cross-stitch to embroider their cholis and the borders of odhnis. The designs are linear and geometrical, and very select colours are used. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery of Gujarat: Embroidery from the Saurashtra and Kutch regions in Gujarat is not only famous but also versatile. There are plenty of stitches used to beautify the product. Abhala is the embroidery where small round pieces of mirrors are fixed on to the fabric using buttonhole stitching; the embroidery is done in a herringbone stitch using silken thread. Rust, light green, indigo, blue, deep red, pink, and purple are the colours used. skirts, kurtis(ladies shirt) and richly embroidered blouses are the other famous items by the craftsperson’s.

Kathi is the oldest embroidery which is known for its romantic motifs. Geometrical motifs are fabricated with multicolored fabric pieces leading to patch work effect. Varieties of items are prepared. Heer is an embossed stitch having shades of off-white, yellow, madder red, black, indigo, ivory, and green. Small mirror pieces are used to add more beauty to the embroidery.

Ari embroidery with silk threads using a hook is a popular craft of Kutch. The motifs found commonly are, dancing peacocks, human figures in dancing poses. A Bandhani pattern complimented with beautiful and delicate bead work is an art to be praised. The various communities in Gujarat --- rabaris , , ahirs, , jats, bharwads bharwads and harijans have their own styles of embroidery. Cotton and quality silks are used by jats and mutuwas to decorate women's outfits. The embroidery of the Rabari community is usually done on a maroon background with the enclosed motifs.

Embroidery of Bihar: Embroidery in Bihar is passed from mother to her daughter as a craft. Kasida embroidery with geometrical patterns of Bihar resembles to the kasuti embroidery of Mysore and is found in many different styles. Zari (metallic thread ) embroidery is done in both silver and gold metallic threads having the motifs of birds, leaf and many other .

sujni is a unique craft which is done from the old worn saris. The saris are stitched jointly with white thread and then quilted. The middle part of the quilt is generally stitched together with coloured threads to create lively patterns.Taganua, is the embroidery which is done with the counting of threads. Khatwa, the appliqué patchwork of Bihar, is found on tents and apart from the personal garments.

In the Mithila region, young girls embroider coverlets, and children's garments (in red, blue, and black, on bleached hand-woven cloth) mainly with folk or religious motifs along with stripes, lines and animal motifs. Mirror work is done on many fabrics and these mirrors are supported with the chain stich using the cotton, silk and synthetic threads. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery of Haryana: In Haryana embroidered fabrics retain their age-old social values for they are among the treasures given to the bride at her marriage. The favourite motifs are the mor-morni (peacock and peahen), and the lotus, with paisley and floral designs.

Embroidery of Jammu & Kashmir: Kashmir is known internationally for its style of embroidery which is found on garments like the phiran, tapestry, curtains, shawls and household linen. The craftsmen draw inspiration from the landscape and the embroidery is renowned for its beauty and richness. The main patterns in this region are chinar leaves, cypress cones, the lotus and almonds.

Kashida, the local lingo for the embroidery, in a number of stitch styles, of which, the sujni stitch is used when uniformity is desired on both sides, like in choice shawls. Zalakdosi, the chain stitch done with a hook is found on chogas (cloaks) and rugs with long and flowing designs. A buttonhole stitch for thick fillings is Vata-chikan. Amli embroidery in multicoloured threads is found in kani shawls while Do-rookha is a double-sided stitch used to create similar patterns on either side but with different colour combinations. Gold or silver embroidery is done around the necks of the gown or phirans while chain and cross-filling stitches are used to do crewel work on namda or carpets. Gabba is another type of floor covering made out of old blankets with a combination of appliqué work and chain stitches. Patterns on gabbas and namdhas are in floral and geometrical designs. Shawls and furnishing fabrics are also embroidered while the famous Pashmina shawls are embroidered with fine silk thread. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery of Kerala: Syrian embroidery, the first to find its way into Kerala, is no longer practised here. The embroidery actually practised now has been introduced by the London Mission Society in the first quarter of the 19th century.

Embroidery of Madhya Pradesh: The Banjaras of Madhya Pradesh who are found in the districts of Malwa and Nimar have their own distinct style of embroidery. Embroidery here is done creating designs according to the weave of the cloth. The items embroidered are ghagras (skirts), borders for blouses, hankies, small purses and dupattas(stoles used to cover heads) . The interior of the hankie is entirely covered with stem stitch embroidery that is done horizontally instead of vertically.

The textured effect is achieved by varying colours and stitches of the geometric patterns and designs. Motifs are generally highlighted by the cross-stitch style of embroidery. The border along the edges of the hankie does not have a continuous pattern but consists of a pattern done by varying the count of the threads while the angular designs are achieved by vertical stitches. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery of Manipur: This area has a unique type of embroidery that uses one stitch, in deference to the weavers in the area. This is done in dark matching shade with untwisted silk thread on the border of the phanek (a lungi or lower body wrap worn by women). Colours in dark red, plum or chocolate are usually used. The embroidery is so artistically done that it does not clash with the weave and is often mistaken for it.

Akoybi embroidery is done in an elegant snake-like pattern or design, derived from the legendary snake, pakhamba (killed by the husband of a goddess, who later tried to atone for this act by imitating the pattern). Akoybi means circular and the design involves one circle joining the other, each broken further with a significant motif in shades of shades of red along with black and white. Hijay is another pattern where black and white, along with shades of pink thread are used in a continuous pattern.

Angami Naga shawls have animal motifs in black. This was previously called sami lami phee (which means warrior cloth of wild animals) and was given to brave distinguished warriors by the royalty, in recognition of their prowess and ability. The colours are bright green, red, yellow, and white. Abhala or mirror-embroidery work is done only on ras dance costume.

The indigenous inhabitants of Manipur are the meithei community. Their designs, called tindogbi, are inspired from a silk caterpillar sitting on a castor leaf and eating it. Possession of Shamilami fabric, which is a combination of weaving and embroidery, is considered a status symbol. Maibung is a natural design inspired from the natural finish of the wood. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery of Tamil Nadu: Ari embroidery of Tamil Nadu has its international market in Nigeria where women drape themselves (during ceremonial occasions) in the embroidered cloth from this region. This has ornamentation of tikris and beads which make them look attractive. Sri Perumbpadur region of Tamilnadu is very famous for this craft where it is done on saris and handkerchiefs.

This type of embroidery is done on a frame of wooden beams. The fabric is woked upon with a long needle, threads, tikris and beads. Multi sized frames are used, usually about 1.5 feet high, to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease. Decorative tikris and beads are attached to the cloth with the needle. This work done on the Real Madras Handkerchief is exported to Africa where this cloth measuring 36” by 36” is used by Nigerian women on ceremonial occasions.

Another embroidery pattern is the jaali or net embroidery in geometric or floral shapes and is done by pulling the warp and weft threads and fixing them with minute buttonhole stitches. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery of West Bengal: Kantha is the most popular embroidery of West Bengal done with folk motifs. Other embroideries include the chikan work, the zari work and Kashida. The fine subtle form of chikan embroidery is usually done on very fine textured cloth like muslin and cotton. The embroidery is usually done by the same coloured thread as the cloth itself. Like blue thread is used on light blue cloth while white thread may be used on white cloth. Though white on white is a popular combination other colored threads are also used in white cloth.

Silk embroidery on cotton clothes, the Kashida, is the most common form and is used primarily for caps and scarves used by the Muslims for prayers. More contemporary modern embroidery involves Kashmiri stitches, Cross stitches, Convent stitches, Cut work and combinations. Kathiawari mirror work is also used in abundance. The modern style uses alpana designs and motifs of flowers, animals and birds. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Embroidery work on net, jaali fabric very exclusive lehengas net embroidery with jari and beads.

The Kashmiri jaal work: The Kashmiri jaal work is quite popular. It takes months to complete thread work on one shawl, stole or bedspread.

Artisans stitch decorative motifs of birds, maple leaves, and other decorative designs. The most popular form of thread work is the chain stitch that is done on shawls and clothes.

Hand Made Indian Embroidery in Fashion

What sets an Indian garment apart from the rest is hand made Indian embroidery.

Want to know more about embroidered sarees, embroidered lehenga cholis

Have a look on bollywood traditional embroidered lehenga album, bollywood traditional embroidered sarees album

In this age of globalisation, when eveything is available everywhere, you cannot merely trust the designer’s label to be sure. That can be easily sourced — just as the fabric, pattern, colour schemes, embellishment and accessories can be generated anywhere anytime. But there is still one element that is identifiably Indian and as any overseas designer would readily acknowledge, which cannot be replicated elsewhere. It is the skill and finesse that goes into embroidery, which gives an Indian garment its distinctive look.

Many may scoff at the over-emphasis on embroidery when minimalism should be more of an in-thing. Yet, no designer can do without a dash of ostentation, even with well-constructed, tailored outfits, not to mention conventional salwar- kameezes, kurtas, lehnga-cholis and sarees.

Have a look on saree, salwar kameez, lehenga cholis.

Also check the links Indian traditional sarees, Embroidered sarees, Satyapaul sarees, Ritu Beri Wedding Lehenga cholis and Sarees, Sabyasachi Sarees and many more...


In all this, zardozi happens to be the most popular and sought after embroidery form with all designers. Traditionally, it used to be executed in gold and silver wire (salma and sitara respectively) on rich textiles like silk and velvet. But today, for a salwar-kameez or jacket, plain silk thread (which produces a metallic sheen) is used and instead of having a pattern stamped with the help of wooden blocks, impressions are made with gum and chalk from paper stencils. The embroidery is done by hand, using needles of different sizes. Often readymade shapes of the material, with names such as nakshi, sadi, kora and kangani are stitched on to form of zardozi patterns. This material is purchased by weight and is available in grouped sections or bunches known as lachhis, held together by a fine string.

Then there is chikankari. The most significant development in this form of embroidery is that craftsmen have turned adaptable to the demands of the fashion industry. Earlier, on the pretext of holding on to time-honoured customs and traditions, they were reluctant to "compromise craft" to market forces.

Star designers discovered this when they went to Lucknow to get some chikankari embroidery done. Much to their amazement, they found craftsmen not only willing to experiment with newer fabrics like chiffon, but also innovate on their technique. The change in attitude and a sense of professionalism among the younger generation of chikankari workers have made them hot property in the Bombay fashion mart. Better still, chikan work has become a "highly evolved" embroidery form, lending itself to crinkled cottons, applique and clothes with tassels!

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In her collection of temple sarees, an upcoming designer applied chikan embroidery on silk for the borders and on white odhnis and stoles. Crinkled lengas, short cotton kurtas and knee-length skirts also made a celebration of this ancient embroidery tradition.

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Another designer making waves with chikankari has combined tiny beaded pears and shimmering sequins with chikan work in an exquissite collection chiffon sarees, silk cholis and gorgeous lehnga-cholis in reds, greens and blues!

Phulkari and bidri are two other embroidery forms undergoing a revival of sorts. A friend had her wedding line of body-hugging kurtis and long skirts in jewel tones with phulkari and sali (or tube) work. On bidri work, the most notable collection comes in the range of ‘cocktail sarees’, kurtas and salwar-Kameez ensembles. Significantly, they were all in black— making the embroidery stand out.

Then there are certain embroidery forms involving mirrors, beads, stones, shells... even jute ropes which find expression in casual wear - strapless halters, one-shouldered tops, back-blouses, lachhas, skirts with asymmetrical hemlines and parallels.

Pramanik presents mesmerizing collection of designer wear wedding fancy sarees, wedding lehenga cholis, embroidered fancy designer wear sarees and lehenga cholis flattered with bids, swarovski, butti, kasabtiki, aari, zari work

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Embroidered Sarees

Since the historical period, Maharashtriyan maratha queens had been wearing embroidered sarees. A very fine equisite embroidery work with golden zari and kasabtiki has been done on silk or georgette sarees. Embroidery give a very rich and gorgeous look. Now a days embroidered sarees are worn in wedding ceremonies and parties and functions which give very rich and sophisticated and glam look to women.

Today saris have a lot of work done on them. Zari, embroidery, organza, zardosy, sequence, cut work, mirror work, patchwork, pearl work, kasab, kundan, are all different kinds of work, which beautify the sari.

Embroidery work mostly done with aari work, mirror work, kasabtiki, swarovski, resham, zari, zardozi, kasabtiki, gota patti, sequins, beads, stones, buttis, net, crystal on fine quality fabrics like silk, Georgette, khadi and chiffon.

Our karigars flatter these sarees with fragile hand embroidery.

Pramanik saree shop is a exclusive saree shop with a wide range of Indian traditional embroidered sarees, Designer wear Indian zari, silk, printed Sarees, Fancy party wear silk sarees, stylish celebrity wear sarees, Traditional wedding Sarees, fine Bandhej Sarees of latest fashion and designs.

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