Indian Fashion

Lehenga Cholis

A choli (or ravika in Telugu) is a midriff-baring blouse worn in India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, and other countries where the sari is worn. The choli is cut to fit tightly to the body and has short sleeves with a low neck. The choli is usually cropped, allowing exposure of the navel; the cropped design is particularly well-suited for wear in the sultry South Asian summers. Cut-out backs and front-opening buttons are some of the features of contemporary designs.

Saris are often woven with an extra length of material meant to be cut off and fashioned into a matching choli. The choli may be sewn so that the elaborately woven borders of the sari material form the bottom edges of the choli sleeves. However, cholis need not match the sari. There is a growing trend towards stretchy, comfortable cholis made from knit materials.

The traditional choli was worn without a brassiere, as is evident from the images in the Choli Art Gallery, below. However, many modern South Asian women wear a soft bra under the choli, for a firmer appearance of the bust. Expensive designer cholis are sewn with padding and reinforcements so that a bra is not needed and backless or off-the-shoulder cholis can be worn with ease.

Women of the Gujarat and Rajasthan countryside may also wear the choli with a gypsy skirt, or lehnga. Their cholis are often loosely fitted and heavily ornamented with embroidery and mirror work, or shisha embroidery.

When wearing a semi-transparent kameez, women usually wear a sleeveless choli as an undergarment similar to a camisole or a bustier.

Office dress codes usually prohibit cropped, sleeveless cholis; similarly, women in the armed forces, when wearing a sari uniform, don a half-sleeve shirt tucked in at the waist.

Some Western women have started wearing the choli as part of their belly dance costume. They typically wear backless cholis (held together with strings) so that the audience can see a dancer's bare back as she sways.

A Lehenga is a dress worn with a choli. also called a gypsy skirt or lehnga. While women of the Gujarat and Rajasthan provinces of India usually represent the outfit for foreigners, the lehenga is native to various parts of India. Based on what part of India one is referring to, the lehenga is worn in different styles, made of different fabrics and includes unique patterns. The lehenga of Rajasthan and gujarat is known for its bandhni work which is a technique in tie-dye mastered by Hindu women of the region. In the Southern states of India, the lehenga skirt is not as voluminous and is worn without a chunni/chunri but with a kurti that covers the midriff. The Lehenga worn in the Northern states of Uttar Pradesh and Uttarkhand has a voluminous skirt and kurti/choli that covers midriff with a long chunni.

Courtesy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lehenga

Ghagara / Ghagra Choli

Dilli Saharme maro ghagro jo ghumyo... You must have listened and enjoyed Vote for Ghagra song sung by Illa Arun. That time it was litterly making Dhoom...

The traditional Ghagra seems to be back. It's one ensemble that still retains its timeless appeal, and seems to have caught fancy of new-age brides, especially the NRIs this wedding season with newer silhouettes, tones and embellishments. The everlasting impression of zari woven borders, highlighted with antique-look zardosi in a ten-kali lehenga is actually perfect for the occasion.

It's a Skirt, usually flared, which reaches upto the ankles. Usually has embroidery or some other work on it. Also spelled as Ghaghra / Gagra.

Ghagra and Lehenga cholis are mostly worn in wedding. These are really favourable bridal wears now a days in nonmaharashriyan weddings.

Also a Maharashtriyan bride choose saree (nauwari/paithani shalu) for Indian traditional sarees and indian wedding sarees but they prefer embroidered lehenga cholis or ghagra cholis for wedding reception function as they give a party or glam look.

Madhuri Dixit had also worn a Lehenga choli in her wedding ceremony.

Madhuri Dixit Nene Wedding photo in lehenga choli

The city of Hyderabad even hosted a Ghagra festival in July to promote the traditional wear with a contemporart touch to it. Ghagra is a traditional (yet worn even by modern Indian women) Indian garment worn originally by Indian women from the state of Rajasthan (desert state in the northwest of India). The ghaghra is actually a long skirt made in such a way that it is pleated from the waist and loose, comfortable and flowing all the way down.

It is tied at the waist with draw strings. A 'choli' or short blouse which comes up to the top of the skirt is worn on top. This ghaghra - choli set can be worn either with or without a 'dupatta' which is a long thin shawl draped over the shoulders. Some of them come with heavy embroidery and rich designs which are usually worn on special occasions.

Newer silhouettes such as the fitted mermaid and fish cuts for the skirt with blouses that range from an off shoulder or backless choli to a corset are seen on the mannequins. Fabrics lightweight jacquard and shaded georgettes are just right for crafting those sheer drapes. Nets are no more lined with crushed tissue but with subtle yet imperial jacquard.

The reason for its popularity is probably that it keeps evolving with lots of variations across time. The Bollywood influence shapes the choices. "Woh jo Kareena Kapoor ne pehna tha (the one that Kareena Kapoor had worn) is the way, the would-be-brides now go about their choice of a ghagra.

Courtesy: http://www.indbazaar.com

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