Indian Fashion  

Different fabrics used for Regional Sarees:

Sarees of different designs and materials are available in a variety of colours. It is made out of cotton, silk and other synthetic materials. The cost of the sarees varies according to the quality. The outer end of the saree or Pallu is most attractive especially on silk sarees.

There are different fabrics patterns for saree to buy.
Saree cloth or fabric can be of different types and patterns. Cotton, Khadi, crepe, georgette, silk, chiffon, net, sattin, soft crush silk, or artificial fibers, such as polyester, nylon, or rayon Semi Silk Cotton saree, hand block printed cotton sari, chicken material saree, south cotton, Bandhni Crafted Banarasi Sarees, Lakhnavi Chicken emboidery sarees and many more...

Women of Tamil Nadu wear silk sarees on special occasions. The Brahmin community wear the saree in a slightly different way without wearing the long skirt. The length of the saree which they wear is longer (nine yards) than the usual one. It is wound separately on both legs in a proper way without restricting the person's free movement.

Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu and Mysore in Karnataka are famous for their unique silk and cotton sarees.
Andhra Pradesh is famous for its cotton sarees which is designed with jerry and thread. The sarees woven at Venkatagiri and Pochhampalli in Andhra are famous. Cotton sarees of Bengal is ideal as a summer wear.
In Kerala, women wear their traditional two piece cloth called mundu and neriyathu. The 'mundu' (one piece) is draped on the lower part of the body. The second piece; 'neriyathu' is worn on top, over a blouse in the same way as the sarees. This mundu also called 'Settu Mundu' is the traditional attire. The mundu was worn in a different way by the women of the royal families.

High quality saree fabric will get an exclusive and designer look when fine prints or designer craft work is done on that or when it is flattered by ethnic embroidery work katha, kasab, sequins, bead mirror, resham, gota, aari, zari, zardosi, jari, zardozi work either hand embroidery or fine machine embroidery.

Batik on Textiles: Batik is a Javanese work which means wax painting. Batik craft came from the Coromandel Coast to South East Asia and revived in Shantiniketan, near Calcutta, and has now gone all over the country and is practiced every where. Wax is used as a resist on the parts of the fabric which are dyed different from the base color which is usually dyed in a dark color. Batik fabric is washed in boiling water so as to remove the wax from batik fabric and then it is again washed with soap after all the colors have been absorbed. The color seeps through the cracks in the irregular network of the breaking wax-coat. The removal of the wax and the irregular network forms a unique design to give the fabric a beautiful appearance. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Batik on Textiles of Gujarat: Batik is a Javanese work which means wax painting. Batik craft came from the Coromandel Coast to South East Asia and revived in Shantiniketan, near Calcutta, and has now gone all over the country and is practiced every where. Wax is used as a resist on the parts of the fabric which are dyed different from the base color which is usually dyed in a dark color. Batik fabric is washed in boiling water so as to remove the wax from batik fabric and then it is again washed with soap after all the colors have been absorbed. The color seeps through the cracks in the irregular network of the breaking wax-coat. The removal of the wax and the irregular network forms a unique design to give the fabric a beautiful appearance. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Brocades of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh: Banarasi Brocades as the world knows it is called by the name kinkab in Varanasi. A high quality weaving is done using gold and silver threads. Silk Threads are also used as well. The most common motifs include scroll patterns and butidars designs. The other designs are Jewelry designs, birds, animals, flowers, creepers, paisley motifs. Hindu religious and Mughal motifs also influenced the brocade designs. When a Gold embellishment is done on a silver background it is called ganga-jamuna in the local language.

The designs are first drawn on paper. The person who draws this is called naqshaband. The main weaver is assisted by a helper. This design is then woven on a small wooden frame to form a grid of warp and weft. The requisite number of warp threads and the extra weft threads are woven on the loom. The famous tissue sari of Varanasi is unbelievably delicate, combining the use of gold and silver metallic threads. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Cut Work Textiles of Uttar Pradesh: The cut work of Banaras is a cotton inlay in cotton developed for furnishings, especially drapes, where it helps cut down the glare of the mid-ay sun. Extremely popular with the urban consumer, the design repertoire covers geometric, floral, and paisley patterns. The technique is suitable to light and transparent fabrics and the motifs are formed with extra weft threads which hang loosely at the back. After weaving these threads are cut away. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Cotton Zari Saris of Andhra: Simple and elegant cotton saris, either with broad borders on both sides or with a single decorative, heavily patterned pallu are woven in Andhra Pradesh. The distinguishing mark is the korvai where the weft threads do not enter the borders. Single-border saris require two shuttles and double-border saris require three shuttles. Country jacquard is used for designs on the borders.

Gadwal and Kothakota weave fine cotton saris with rich gold borders and heavy panel-like pallus. Cotton saris with richly woven pallus and borders in gold with opulent designs are also made in places like Siddhipet and Armoor.

Upada in Andhra Pradesh is famous for the jamdani technique. The saris are usually in cotton, silk, and a mixture of cotton and silk and the motifs woven are simple and traditional. These white and gold saris are particularly dramatic. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Dharmavaram Silk Sari of Andhra: Indian beauties are known for draping themselves in saris. Sari is the national dress for the women folk of India. Anantapur district in Andhra Pradesh is very well known for its silk saris. The beauty of dharmayaram sari speaks about the volume of hard work and the artistry done by the craftsmen. The borders of the sari is the highlight of this five yards of material because of the brilliance of its colours. Traditional designs of butis and dots are the motifs. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Gadwal Saris of Andhra: Gadwal in Andhra Pradesh is known for weaving saris in cotton weft, with richly brocaded gold borders and pallus with elaborate designs. These saris were originally woven for the royalty and the nobility. The borders and body of the sari are traditionally in dramatic colours. Now Gadwal is changing with the times and saris in silk and tassar are also being woven here. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Maharashtriyan Ganga Jamuna Sarees: The double-coloured Ganga-Jamuna saris are traditional sarees from Maharashtra. The main characteristic of this sari is the plain weaving with solid colours on either side, both sides of the sari can thus be worn. This sari is woven on double cloth principle with two shades of colour in the warp and weft. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Khan Textiles of Maharashtra: Khan fabric is a woven butidar textile piece, originally made in 30 inches widths. It was usually used for making cholis and blouses. It is now woven using fly shuttles in a pit-loom with a lattice dobby attachment taking 60/40 counts coloured warp and weft yarns. The finished products include saris, scarfs, and dress materials. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Karvatkati Saris of Maharashtra: The Vidarbha region of Maharashtra is the place of origin of the karvat kati (saw-edged) sari, so named after the border design which resembles saw-teeth. This sari is generally used during ritual functions and is woven on a pit-loom using three fly shuttles with silk, tussar, and cotton yarns of various counts. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Kasuti Embroidery of Karnataka: Kasuti embroidery is a special craft practised mainly in Uttara Kanara district or North Kanara district. Its secret lies in the fact that it can be done only by counting the threads of the weft and the warp. There is no possibility of tracing or implanting the design prematurely as outlines. With considerable dexterity, an ordinary sewing needle is used to create a variety of designs with coloured threads on the cloth. The embroidery is done only by women. The two kinds of stitching are gavanti (line or double running stitch) and murgi (zig-zag lines done with a darning stitch). The two sides are neat and identical. Negi is the ordinary running stitch used in large designs, creating a woven design effect. Menthi is a cross-stitch used for architectural patterns. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

This embroidery is done mainly on handloom irkal saris.The motifs here range from architectural designs to a cradle and from an elephant to a squirrel. The main motifs are religious and are found to be larger near the pall; as they move downwards in a sari the motifs get smaller and smaller. Vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches are used. The motifs have to be completed as the stitching line comes back to fill in the blank spaces.

Coorg has its own embroidery which is like Kasuti. In this the cross-stitch and the line or double running stitches are combined. The motifs are religious or taken from everyday life. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Kora Cotton Sarees of Tamil Nadu: Sarees of very fine cotton are woven widely in Coimbatore district. The kora cotton sari has a kora silk warp and a cotton weft yarn. The sari has a self-designed jacquard all over. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Karnataka Kornadu Sarees: These sareeis are a mix of cotton and silk and are woven with a blue cotton yarn and a silk yarn in several colours other than blue. The border motifs are varied and the body of the sari has checked or striped patterns.

Poornakumbham Cotton Saris of Tamil Nadu: Sari is the national dress of India. Poornakumbham saris are the fine cotton textured saris which are woven with rudraksha motifs highlighted with pearls or neuththu and cross lines. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Silk Weaving of Assam: Assam is the home of several types of silks, the most prominent and prestigious being muga, the golden silk found exclusively in this state. Muga apart, there is pat and eri or endi, the latter being used in anufacture of warm clothes for winter. The silk commonly found in Assam is non-mulberry silk. Pat which is mulberry silk is found in small quantities. Endi is yellowish in colour and is found in rough and smooth varieties; it derives its name from the castor leaves on which the worm feeds. This is woven, into shawls and clothing for the winter. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

There are two types of muga silk, depending on the leaves the worms feed upon: champa adakari and mejamkari. Muga silk has a golden sheen and is in high demand all over India for embroidery purposes. It grows more lustrous with each wash. This was used, together with zari, to weave fabrics for royalty. Today, the zari has been replaced by multicoloured cotton threads. The designs woven into these fabrics are drawn from the flora of Assam and, as in other parts of India, are symbolic of the different tribes and ethnic groups of the area.

The main centre in Assam for silk-weaving is Sualkuchi. The texture is delicate, with dainty designs and natural colours. The main dress of the women here is the lungi called mekhela. This is usually plain but sometimes has motifs all over its body and can have elaborately designed ends. The other items of clothing include the chaddar, which goes over the shoulder, and the riha, which is tied to the waist. The motifs are usually flowers, birds, animals, leaves, and geometrical designs. One speciality of this region is the bamboo weft designs, eight in number, which are used as variations in weaving patterns. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Gharchola Craft of Gujarat: The gharchola is the traditional Hindu and Jain wedding sari and the numbers of squares in it is ritually important, being multiples of nine, 12, or 52. The making of the gharchola is a complicated and time-consuming process. A starched silk odhni or sari is fixed to a large wooden frame using nails. The sari/odhini, coloured red or green, is divided into a network of squares by rows of white tie-dyed spots or woven bands of zari. Motifs within each compartment range from elephants, parrots, and flowers to dancing girls. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Hand Block Printing of Balotra in Rajasthan: The traditional block-printing running in parallel lines technique of Ajrakh has attained a peak of excellence at Balotra. Although a desert climate but good water is one of the main reasons which imparts good colors which is so important for hand-block printing. The speciality of the block printing of Balotra is that it is done on both sides of the cloth. This is very diffult technique because there should not be any imbalance in the design-transfer from the block to the cloth. The reverse side hand block printing is done simultenously even when the other side of the design print is wet. The hand-block printed fabric from Balotra is therefore very exclusive and relatively expensive.

Ikat or Bandha from Orissa: Ikat or bandha of Orissa has gloriously woven, blurred, and gem-coloured motifs in silk and cotton. The dominant motifs in this craft include animals and birds, with the traditional designs being fish and conch shell as well as bolmala, chandankora, and sachipar. As the design-type is single ikat, the designs on the material are blurred; however, this trace-design has a beauty all its own.

The intricate process involves tie and dye --- knotting sections of the yarn before dipping them in colours one at a time, and finally weaving them to produce motifs in multi-hued tones. While Sambalpur is famous for its double-ikat textiles, Sonepur is known for its gold embroidered ones. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Jamdani Weaving of Uttar Pradesh: The main centres of Jamdani weaving in Uttar Pradesh are Tanda (Fyzabad district) and Banaras. Jamdanis are very thinly textured muslins(white thin cloth) with floral, bird and animal motifswhich are woven on the loom. The warp is unbleached gray yarn and the motifs are woven with bleached white yarn. At banaras the craftspersons use gold thread in addition to the bleached and unbleached white threads. The finest Banaras muslins are called Kasivastras. Tanda fabrics are exceptionally frail and only white yarn is used for the weaving. The threads used for decoration are not cut at the edges, but are left hanging in the spool and then introduced into the figured pick.

The craftspersons today also follow the traditional jamdani pit looms to form traditional designs. The weaving done is with two threads of yarn of the same count as the background are used to weave the floral motifs which are done by means of extra spools, The kind of weaving done is known as twill-tapestry, which is same as embroidery where the bamboo-spindle takes the place of the needle. Jamdanis are very suitable for saris, caps and angarkhis.. The motifs of flowers used for the weaving are chameli, pomera, genda, mogra, kamana, , juhi, khas ishqapench, harsingar and phulbanjari. Aribel, Kangura, Jaldar, Saro, Marava, Haravver, Lahar, Purmatan, Kharibel are few motifs which are very regularly used in jamdani weaving of Uttarpradesh. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Kanchipuram Sarees of Tamil Nadu: Kanchipuram is the famous weaving centre in Tamil Nadu. The weaving community in Kanchipuram is called Salgars (from the Sanskrit word, salika meaning weaver), and they claim descent from Sage Markanda, the weaver of the gods. Earlier the design-jacquards were made from round lamp-wicks but now mechanised hooks and jacquard boxes are used. The designs on the body of the sari are woven with gold thread and the motifs range from figures to temple gopuras (towers) along the border. One of the traditions of the Kanchipuram saris is the contrasting borders.

Two weavers work on three shuttles to make the sari; the pallu is also done separately, especially if it is of another shade. The meeting of the body of the sari with the border is characterised by a zigzag design, the vanki design, which can also be found all over the body. Typical motifs used in these saris are the sun, moon, chariots, swans, peacocks, parrots, lions, coins, mangoes and leaves. Patterns are also formed by lines and squares and when the jasmine motif is found either inside a square or scattered all over, it is called mallinaggu. The Thandavalam motif has parallel-line motifs running all over the body of the sari. In the pattu motif, the pallu and the border alone have floral motifs independently woven on them. Other motifs used are creepers, peacocks and the rudraksh or red-dented seed pattern on the body and end-borders of the sari.

These sarees are usually made in brilliant reds, saffron, orange, emerald, henna green, maroon, peacock blue and ochre with bright contrasting borders. These days silver is being used in addition to gold. Weavers also make tissue saris, using only gold or silver metal threads. This tradition of silk sari weaving at Kanchipuram arose out of temple-traditions with the famous Kamakshi temple situated there. Upper-caste families wore only silk and weddings and festivals (Deepavali, Pongal, etc) were an occasion for the purchase of many silk saris. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

Kantha Embroidery of West Bengal: The Kantha Embroidery is the predominantly the most popular form of embroidery practised by the rural women. The traditional form of Kantha embroidery was done the soft dhotis and saris. The thread for this craft was drawn out of the borders of the used cloth. It is a simple running stitch made on the edges. When five to six layers of the cloth were embroidered together it formed a quilt. Fewer layers of the cloth is used to make clothes for other purposes. The outer layers of the cloth comprises of white or light colored clothes which made the embroidery perceptible. Depending on the use of the finished product they were known as Lepkantha, Sujni Kantha etc. The mebroidered cloth is used as stoles for women and shawls. The clothes also find use as covers for mirrors, boxes, pillows etc. The entire cloth is covered with running stitches and usually has beautiful folk motifs, floral motifs, animal and birds figures and geometrical shapes. Themes from day to day activities are also a common subject for the embroidery. Such stitches on the cloth give it a slight wrinkled wavy effect. The contemporary Kantha is not necessarily done on old multiple layered saris or dhotis. It can also be seen on the present day garments like the sarees, dupatta, shirts for men and women, bedding and other furnishing fabrics. For these fabrics and dresses the base fabric used is cotton and silk. (Courtesy: www.craftandartisans.com)

sarees are worn in different ways in many places, especially in Gujarat, Manipur, Maharashtra and Coorg (Karnataka). 

Indian style saree, in India, majority of women wear saree. The saree is a long piece of cloth about a meter wide and 5 to 5 1/2 meters long. The saree is draped over a long skirt. A tight fitting blouse known as choli is worn on the upper part of the body.

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